Palani Hill Steps & Panchamirtham Morning

The pilgrims' stairway

Palani's hilltop temple to Murugan as Dhandayuthapani, the ascetic with a staff, is the third of his six abodes and one of the busiest pilgrim centres in Tamil Nadu. We meet at 05:45 at the foot of the hill, leave footwear at the stand and climb the 693 steps in the cool before sunrise, at an easy pace with stops at the mandapams and shrines on the way. Your guide, from a Palani family, tells the story of the fruit of wisdom and of the Siddhar Bogar, and explains the kavadi and tonsuring vows you will see.

At the top

We join the morning darshan queue (special-darshan tickets are included; camera phones must be deposited at the counter) and then walk the outer enclosure for the view over the Palani hills and the plains below. If anyone in the group prefers not to walk down, we take the winch railway (ticket included).

Panchamirtham

Back in the town, we visit a shop where Palani panchamirtham, a thick sweet of banana, jaggery, ghee, honey and cardamom with a Geographical Indication tag, is packed, taste it with a simple temple-town breakfast and pick up a jar to take home. Expect large crowds on Thaipusam, Panguni Uthiram and Krithigai days.