Dindigul Biryani & Rock Fort Food Trail

Fort first

We meet at 09:00 at the foot of the Dindigul Rock Fort and climb the rock-cut steps to the ramparts built by the Madurai Nayaks in 1605, for a view over the town before the sun gets strong (ASI ticket included). Your host, who has eaten in Dindigul's biryani houses since childhood, tells the story of the town from the fort walls.

Seeraga samba

Dindigul biryani is not Hyderabad's or Lucknow's. It is made with seeraga samba, a small, fragrant Tamil rice, and smaller pieces of mutton cooked with plenty of pepper and spice, and it is eaten off a banana leaf. Back in town we visit a biryani kitchen as the big pots are opened, then sit down to lunch: mutton biryani with onion raita and a brinjal gravy, mutton chukka and a chicken fry, with a vegetable biryani for anyone who prefers it.

Something sweet

We finish with a walk through the market streets for a glass of cooling nannari sherbet and something sweet from a local bakery. Tell us in advance about dietary needs; the lunch is spicy but not fiery.