In 1639-40 the English East India Company was granted a strip of coast, and in 1644 it finished a fort here. Around it grew two towns: White Town inside the walls, and the much larger Black Town of Indian merchants, weavers and traders outside, renamed George Town in 1911 in honour of King George V. This walk explores both, in the cool of the morning.
We start at Fort St. George, today the seat of the Tamil Nadu Secretariat, and visit St Mary's Church, consecrated in 1680 and the oldest Anglican church in India, before the Fort Museum opens its doors (closed Fridays, so Friday walks see the museum from outside). Crossing to George Town, we see the red sandstone domes of the Madras High Court (1892), the quiet courtyard of the Armenian Church (1772) and the old lighthouse, then lose ourselves in the lanes of the flower, brass and spice bazaars around Parry's Corner and the Kalikambal temple.
The walk is about 3 km on busy streets and ends with filter coffee in a George Town canteen. Carry a photo ID for the fort; photography of Secretariat and military buildings is not allowed. The fort museum ticket is included.
செல்லும் முன் தெரிந்துகொள்ளுங்கள்
Most temples are living places of worship: dress modestly, remove footwear at the counter outside, and expect crowds and closed sanctums around midday. Photography is never allowed inside sanctums, and many temples now ask you to deposit phones. Each site's own rules are listed under its etiquette.
What to bring
Then & Now


Comparing the 1905 photograph with the same view today.
Then: Fort St. George.jpg — Unknown photographer, 1905 (Public domain)
Now: Fort St. George, Chennai 2.jpg — L.vivian.richard at English Wikipedia (Public domain)
2026 Today
Now home to the Tamil Nadu Legislative Assembly and Secretariat. The museum keeps the first flag hoisted after independence.
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