Srivilliputhur is the birthplace of Andal, the poet-saint whose Tiruppavai is sung every Margazhi, and its temple gopuram rises about 59 metres over the town. We meet at 07:00 at the temple car street, visit the Andal and Vatapatrasayi shrines with your host (camera phones are best left in the car or at the counter), and walk the four car streets as the town wakes up.
Srivilliputhur palkova holds a Geographical Indication tag, and the town's dairy farmers and sweet makers say the secret is the local milk and patience. In a family-run kitchen you watch fresh milk and sugar stirred in wide iron pans over a wood or gas fire for a long time until it turns into soft, grainy, caramel-coloured palkova. You take a turn at the ladle and learn how to tell when it is done.
We finish with warm palkova straight from the pan, a plate of temple-town tiffin (idli, pongal and vada) and filter coffee, and a box of palkova to take home. Vegetarian throughout.
செல்லும் முன் தெரிந்துகொள்ளுங்கள்
Meals are usually served on a banana leaf and eaten with the right hand; cutlery is always available if you ask. Tell your host about allergies and how much spice you enjoy when you book — Chettinad food in particular can be fiery.
What to bring
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Full refund if cancelled 24 hours before.
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