The son who taught his father

Swamimalai's story turns the usual order upside down. The child Murugan asked Brahma the meaning of the syllable Om; when Brahma could not explain it, Murugan held him captive. Shiva came to reason with his son and was challenged in turn, so Murugan explained Om to his own father. That is why he is worshipped here as Swaminatha, the teacher of the Lord, and why his shrine sits above Shiva's.

Sixty steps

The temple stands on a mound about 18 metres high on a tributary of the Kaveri, about six kilometres west of Kumbakonam. Shiva as Sundareswarar and Meenakshi have their shrines at the foot; sixty steps, each named after one of the sixty years of the Tamil calendar cycle, lead up to Murugan. As at Tiruttani, an elephant rather than a peacock stands before the sanctum. Sangam poetry names the abode Thiruverakam, and the 14th-century poet Arunagirinathar sang of it in Tiruppugazh.

Village of bronzes

Swamimalai is also Tamil Nadu's best-known centre of lost-wax bronze casting: the sthapathis' workshops along the main road still make temple icons by the method used for Chola bronzes. The main festival is Vaikasi Visakam. The temple is run by the HR&CE Department.