The orchard of falling fruit

The name says it: pazham, fruit; udir, to fall; cholai, a grove. A favourite Tamil story is set here. The old poet Avvaiyar, tired and hungry, rested under a naaval (jamun) tree, and a cowherd boy in the branches asked whether she wanted her fruit hot or not hot. Puzzled, she asked for it hot; he shook down fruit that fell in the dust, and as she blew on each one to clean it, the boy laughed that it must be hot. The boy was Murugan, and the poet learned humility.

The sixth abode

Tirumurugatruppadai ends its guide to Murugan's six abodes at Pazhamudircholai, and the Silappatikaram also knows the hills. For centuries only the vel, Murugan's spear, was worshipped here; shrines to Vinayaka and to Murugan with Valli and Deivanai were established later, and the buildings you see today are modern. The temple is run by the HR&CE Department.

Into the hills

The road climbs about four kilometres through forest from Alagar Kovil, the great Vishnu temple at the foot of the hill, about 20 km north of Madurai. Above the Murugan temple a path leads to Nupura Gangai, a spring where pilgrims bathe. Bonnet macaques patrol the car park, so keep food out of sight.