The saint of Nagore

Syed Shahul Hameed, a Sufi of the Qadiri order, travelled from north India by way of the Maldives and Sri Lanka and settled in the coastal town of Nagore in the 16th century. Devotees called him Nagore Andavar, the master of Nagore. The best-known story tells how he cured a Nayak king of Thanjavur of a mysterious illness by finding a pigeon stuck with pins in the palace and freeing it; devotees still release pigeons at the dargah. The grateful king is said to have granted land, on which the shrine was later built over the saint's tomb.

Five minarets

The dargah grew with gifts from people of many faiths. Its five minarets surround a gilded dome over the tomb chamber, and the tallest minaret was built by Pratap Singh, the Maratha ruler of Thanjavur (1739-1763). A tank in the courtyard is used for ablutions, and the walls of the shrine are hung with silver and brass votive offerings.

The Kanduri festival

The biggest event is the Kanduri festival, the saint's death anniversary (urs), which lasts about two weeks. Its high point is the sandalwood procession through the town at night, when sandal paste is carried to the tomb. Nagore lies just north of Nagapattinam, a short drive from Velankanni, and pilgrims often visit both in a day.